1/2 inch ≈ 12.7 mm
A lower floor height. Worth considering when you have limited clearance under doors or need to meet a thinner adjoining floor.
REAL WOOD. CLEAR ANSWERS.
Why engineered hardwood?
Real wood on top. Supporting layers below. This construction helps the plank stay more stable as indoor humidity changes.
One plank. Layers working together.
Shown pulled apart so you can see what is inside.
Four parts. Each with a purpose.
Protective finish
A clear coating applied to the wood—not a separate sheet. It protects the wood from everyday wear, but it can still scratch.
Real hardwood wear layer
The wood you see and walk on. Our priced standard collections have a 1.2 mm or 4 mm hardwood face. More wood may allow future refinishing; check the product’s sanding limits.
Cross-layered plywood core
Thin sheets of wood bonded together, with the grain running in different directions. This helps reduce swelling and shrinking. Wood species, sound glue bonds and accurate construction all matter.
Backing layer
The bottom layer helps balance the plank. Its material and thickness depend on the floor’s construction.
Two thicknesses. Two different jobs.
Overall thickness is the whole plank, from top to bottom. Wear-layer thickness is just the real hardwood on top.
Thicker does not automatically mean tougher. A thicker plank can have the same hardwood wear layer as a thinner one. Compare the core, joints, finish and wear layer—not just the overall thickness.
How to choose for your space
- Compare finished heights. Add the plank thickness and any adhesive or underlay specified for the installation. Compare that total with the adjoining floor. A closer match can reduce the height change at the doorway; a transition piece can bridge a difference.
- Check clearance. Measure the space beneath doors and consider appliances that need to slide out. A taller floor can require adjustments. At stairs, changes to finished height need to preserve safe, consistent step heights.
- Read the installation options. Look for “glue-down,” “nail-down” or “floating” in the exact floor’s instructions. Use an approved method for your subfloor. Thickness alone does not tell you which methods are allowed.
- Compare what you are buying. Different thicknesses reflect different construction designs, material use and price points. Extra thickness may be in the core rather than the hardwood face. Compare the wear layer, core and finish alongside the price.
If both fit, either can be a good choice. You do not need to buy the thickest plank. Choose the look, construction and price you prefer.
A thicker plank does not replace a properly prepared subfloor. Follow the product’s requirements for flatness, moisture, adhesive or underlay, and expansion space. See examples of manufacturer installation guides.
Real wood within reach.
Camp Bowie & Prosper Frontier
Real hardwood at a lower price. Choose it for the look you love; do not plan on a full sanding later.
More hardwood above the core.
Maison Bordeaux & Montebello
More hardwood, with more room for possible refinishing. Ask us to confirm sanding limits for your floor before buying.
What am I paying more for?
- More hardwood: a thicker face may allow future sanding.
- A different look: longer boards, wider planks or more selective grain and color sorting.
- Build quality: well-bonded layers and accurately cut joints.
- Finish and support: the coating, care options and written warranty.
A lower-priced floor can still be a good floor. Spend on the differences you will use and enjoy.
What should I look for in a sample?
- Look at the cut edge. Ask about gaps or layers pulling apart.
- Fit a few boards together. Check for uneven edges and poorly fitting joints.
- View several full boards. A tiny sample cannot show the whole color range.
- Ask for the hardwood-face thickness and the mix of board lengths in a box.
Knots and color changes can be intentional. “Rustic” describes the look, not poor construction.
Why does it suit many Texas homes?
The layered design helps reduce wood movement. Approved products can be installed over concrete slabs—a useful option for enjoying real wood at home.
It is still wood, not waterproof flooring. Your installer must check slab moisture and follow the floor’s installation instructions. Keep indoor humidity within the recommended range.
Will a thicker floor scratch less?
Not necessarily. Scratches depend on the finish and use. Dents also depend on the wood species and construction. A thicker hardwood face mainly gives you more wood above the core.
Use felt pads under furniture and clean up grit. No wood floor is scratch-proof.
What about glue and indoor air?
Engineered wood uses glue and finishes. Ask for emissions testing and compliance documents for the exact floor, plus the adhesive used to install it. “Natural” does not mean emission-free.
We’ll help you obtain the product documents before you decide.
Further reading: Core construction · Bona: hardwood construction and care · NWFA: wood over concrete · EPA: composite wood and emissions
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